8x10 users?

Is anyone around here an 8x10 shooter? I've got some ideas for marking some art but I'm gonna need a little help and perhaps the worst 8x10 photo purposely ever taken in recorded history.

Thanks.

Except for the size of the film, using 8 x 10 is no different than using any other size cut film. Do you have any specific questions?

If your asking a question , your going to need to make it clearer than this .
in LF I shoot mainly 5x4 , but I also have 7x5 and 8x6 .
It's the same process regardless of format size , some lenses being used on more than one format using adapter lens boards to mount them on the larger format cameras .

Yes, but I am not sure of the terminology, so I apologize in advance. When working with 35mm and 120, I can get negatives back that are a deep black and reflective. I don't know why exactly that is. I'm wondering how can I achieve that in an 8x10 negative. I'm trying to get an 8x10 negative that is that same deep black that is reflective.

I haven't used much negative film, so am just guessing here - to attain the same look with 8 x 10 as with 35mm or 120, wouldn't you have to have the same emulsion, chemistry and developing procedure? Chemistry and procedure are simple enough to achieve, but the selection of 8 x 10 films may be more limited than for the roll-films. Hopefully some experienced black and white negative shooters will chime in here. I will be following this thread with interest.

I used to develop b&w film (from 35mm to 8'x10'inch sheets) for a long time. I suspect your problem has to do with the different type of tanks. In a 35mm Kindermann tank you can shake a lot more in comparison with a smal sheetfilm-tank. The development of film depends on the dillution, the temperatur, the time and the shaking/ movement of the film in the liquid.
A sheet negative can be as good as a rolfilm.
(I am Dutch, so my English writing is not good)

With 35 mm and 120, the normal development is in a tank. For large format - there are multiple ways to develop. If you have a fully functional dark room, the old fashion tank allows even more flexibility for large format. Here is an interesting video.

For large format - there are multiple ways to develop.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ydz1K1iQP0&t=10s
www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3KCCEbovig

I always used different developers and agitation methods on large format film than roll film. With roll film I would use either 5 second agitation every 30 seconds or 10 seconds every minute - depending on the developer and dilution. With sheet film, I would more often than not use almost continuous agitation. The sheet film is more sensitive to good agitation methods since streaking can be a problem. If one is doing LF color, then a temperature controlled rotary system is almost essential.