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Which device were you referring to when you mentioned video settings in your post?
@SrMi has written: @IliahBorg has written:IMO ISO doesn't deserve all that attention, mastering focusing and exposure settings is much more important.
The least attention you can give to ISO is putting it into Auto mode :).
Logically so, but for some reason many people seem to get the opposite feeling. I don't know how many times I've read people commenting that cameras should have two modes on the dial for manual exposure times and manual apertures; one called "M", which would be full manual, and one called "I", which means "ISO priority" even though one sets exposure time and aperture, and ISO is automatic (ISO actually has the lowest priority). Of course, most cameras already have "ISO priority"; it is when you set a manual ISO in "P" mode.
In those terms, ISO priority = dynamic range priority. Useful in landscape photography.
With video I normally also use Auto ISO but lock in the nearest shutter speed to
1/(2 × frame rate)
What if you were shooting at 240fps; would you need 1/500? Unless I was going to want to rip out individual frames as stills that need a fast shutter speed, I'd use 1/320.
I used to think that you could get away with faster shutter speeds at higher frame rates, but after buying a 360fps laptop, I've found that you need blur for motion, even at that framerate. Any sharp edge that moves more than a couple of mm on the monitor between frames will appear as a multiple exposure. So, while 180 degrees seems to be a good compromise between stuttering and too much blur at 24fps or 30 or 60fps, that shutter angle is not going to be near-optimal over the entire range of potential framerates. For very low framerates, you are going to have a "fast slideshow" type of effect, anyway, so fluid motion is less expressable, and you may as well look at sharper "slides", and at the very fast framerates, there may be no utility in truncating exposure time at all, and rows of pixels should probably be reset immediately after they are read if the video is to be used as video, and not as a burst of intended stills packaged in a video file.
So let's say you had a 600fps video camera; you'd probably want to use ~1/600.01 exposure time, so that motion is as blurred as possible, and also, you'd have almost zero blackout at any pixel (just the read/reset interval), so you could resample the video temporally, without any temporal aliasing artifacts, or individual ghosted (multiple-exposure) frames in a slower-fps output.
@JohnSheehyRev has written: @SrMi has written:The least attention you can give to ISO is putting it into Auto mode :).
Logically so, but for some reason many people seem to get the opposite feeling. I don't know how many times I've read people commenting that cameras should have two modes on the dial for manual exposure times and manual apertures; one called "M", which would be full manual, and one called "I", which means "ISO priority" even though one sets exposure time and aperture, and ISO is automatic (ISO actually has the lowest priority). Of course, most cameras already have "ISO priority"; it is when you set a manual ISO in "P" mode.
In those terms, ISO priority = dynamic range priority. Useful in landscape photography.
I have no idea what you're trying to say there. "ISO priority" literally means that ISO is the only thing you want to directly control, and that you'd like to let the camera choose f-number and exposure time.
@Quarkcharmed has written: @JohnSheehyRev has written: @SrMi has written:The least attention you can give to ISO is putting it into Auto mode :).
Logically so, but for some reason many people seem to get the opposite feeling. I don't know how many times I've read people commenting that cameras should have two modes on the dial for manual exposure times and manual apertures; one called "M", which would be full manual, and one called "I", which means "ISO priority" even though one sets exposure time and aperture, and ISO is automatic (ISO actually has the lowest priority). Of course, most cameras already have "ISO priority"; it is when you set a manual ISO in "P" mode.
In those terms, ISO priority = dynamic range priority. Useful in landscape photography.
I have no idea what you're trying to say there. "ISO priority" literally means that ISO is the only thing you want to directly control, and that you'd like to let the camera choose f-number and exposure time.
Then I didn't fully get the idea of that proposed 'I' mode (I didn't mean 'P' with manual ISO was good for landscape photography).
When you set ISO first, it can be called 'ISO priority'. In camera manuals, 'priority' is just the setting you control manually. So P, M, Av or Tv with manual ISO all can be called 'ISO priority'. It doesn't need to be the 'only' thing you control. Say in Av you may control both aperture and ISO.
Canon invented this new Fv mode ('Flexible') where you can switch between 'priorities', that is, you can switch between the settings you want to control manually. The mode came out quite clumsy in my opinion, but you can actually control whatever you like, e.g. ISO, and the camera will set f-stop and shutter speed automatically. And then you can tweak f-stop manually.
@BillFerris has written: @DannoB has written: @BillFerris has written: @DannoB has written: @Stig has written:I have never used auto ISO, and probably never will...
I do my own calculations for any given situation and dial them in for that. Much of it is intuitive.I am the opposite. I always use auto iso, as suggested to try in the video, and lock in base iso only when using a tripod and there is no movement in the scene.
Why would base ISO only be usable when on a tripod with no movement in the scene? ISO selection is more driven by how much of the available light is getting to the sensor, in my experience. In midday light, f/2.8 is compatible with a shutter speed of 1/2000 and an ISO of 100. That's base ISO for a lot of cameras and the shutter speed makes freezing movement in the frame rather trivial.
Nowhere at all have I ever said base ISO is usable only when I am using a tripod so I don't see the point of your question.
You wrote, "I always...lock in base ISO only when using a tripod"
I see that as a stupid statement because you are quoting just the bits that suit your agenda 😎😎
What I actually said is -
@DannoB has written:I am the opposite. I always use auto iso, as suggested to try in the video, and lock in base iso only when using a tripod and there is no movement in the scene.
For pointing and shooting I normally use aperture priority with a minimum shutter speed set plus auto ISO or manual plus auto ISO.
And in my post you replied to I said -
@DannoB has written:I said I set aperture and shutter speed first and then let the camera set ISO because it makes no difference to me what ISO the camera sets as long as important highlights are not clipped.
My 90D works like this with aperture priority, minimum shutter speed and Auto ISO - it first sets base ISO. To zero the meter, if the shutter speed it then wants to set is slower than the min. set then the ss is set to the min. and ISO is raised to zero the meter. If the shutter speed it wants to set is faster than the min. then base ISO is retained and the faster shutter speed is set to zero the meter.
So contrary to you claiming I suggested base ISO is usable only when my camera is on a tripod with no movement in the scene, I actually stated that my camera sets base ISO where appropriate and so it is totally usable.
Perhaps read all of my posts before commenting and don't screw things up by quoting bits and pieces out of context to suit your agenda 😍😎
You'd do well to take ownership of what you write and simply acknowledge a mistake rather than attacking someone for bringing it to your attention.
When you set ISO first, it can be called 'ISO priority'. In camera manuals, 'priority' is just the setting you control manually. So P, M, Av or Tv with manual ISO all can be called 'ISO priority'. It doesn't need to be the 'only' thing you control. Say in Av you may control both aperture and ISO.
If you called a mode "ISO priority", then it clearly and definitely says that ISO is "more fixed" than either the exposure time or the f-number.
@Quarkcharmed has written:When you set ISO first, it can be called 'ISO priority'. In camera manuals, 'priority' is just the setting you control manually. So P, M, Av or Tv with manual ISO all can be called 'ISO priority'. It doesn't need to be the 'only' thing you control. Say in Av you may control both aperture and ISO.
If you called a mode "ISO priority", then it clearly and definitely says that ISO is "more fixed" than either the exposure time or the f-number.
How can it be 'more fixed' if I manually control, say, both aperture and ISO? If I set them independently, they're both the same 'priority'. Or I'd argue if I set ISO first and then aperture, then it's 'ISO priority'. In which case the priority is chosen manually. Higher priority is just whatever I set earlier. It's the case in ETTR where I typically set ISO first (to 100 or sometimes 400).
@DannoB has written: @BillFerris has written: @DannoB has written: @BillFerris has written: @DannoB has written: @Stig has written:I have never used auto ISO, and probably never will...
I do my own calculations for any given situation and dial them in for that. Much of it is intuitive.I am the opposite. I always use auto iso, as suggested to try in the video, and lock in base iso only when using a tripod and there is no movement in the scene.
Why would base ISO only be usable when on a tripod with no movement in the scene? ISO selection is more driven by how much of the available light is getting to the sensor, in my experience. In midday light, f/2.8 is compatible with a shutter speed of 1/2000 and an ISO of 100. That's base ISO for a lot of cameras and the shutter speed makes freezing movement in the frame rather trivial.
Nowhere at all have I ever said base ISO is usable only when I am using a tripod so I don't see the point of your question.
You wrote, "I always...lock in base ISO only when using a tripod"
I see that as a stupid statement because you are quoting just the bits that suit your agenda 😎😎
What I actually said is -
@DannoB has written:I am the opposite. I always use auto iso, as suggested to try in the video, and lock in base iso only when using a tripod and there is no movement in the scene.
For pointing and shooting I normally use aperture priority with a minimum shutter speed set plus auto ISO or manual plus auto ISO.
And in my post you replied to I said -
@DannoB has written:I said I set aperture and shutter speed first and then let the camera set ISO because it makes no difference to me what ISO the camera sets as long as important highlights are not clipped.
My 90D works like this with aperture priority, minimum shutter speed and Auto ISO - it first sets base ISO. To zero the meter, if the shutter speed it then wants to set is slower than the min. set then the ss is set to the min. and ISO is raised to zero the meter. If the shutter speed it wants to set is faster than the min. then base ISO is retained and the faster shutter speed is set to zero the meter.
So contrary to you claiming I suggested base ISO is usable only when my camera is on a tripod with no movement in the scene, I actually stated that my camera sets base ISO where appropriate and so it is totally usable.
Perhaps read all of my posts before commenting and don't screw things up by quoting bits and pieces out of context to suit your agenda 😍😎
You'd do well to take ownership of what you write and simply acknowledge a mistake rather than attacking someone for bringing it to your attention.
That is your opinion to have and that's fine.
People are forming their own opinions on your honesty and integrity based on what you and I wrote and that is the way it should be 😊
I posted I lock in base iso only when using a tripod and there is no movement in the scene.
I added that auto iso sets base iso when appropriate.
In both cases the base iso shots are usable.