Dunno about the Mk. VII version. I have the Mk.Va and am very happy with it, despite the fact that it is limited to 24-70 mm (FF equiv). The low light performance is excellent. The only things I dont like are the menu system, and the apparent lack of robust construction, which are shared with the Mk. VII, of course.
Possibly, but I am getting something with the same processor and sensor as I have now, that can take an external flash, has a decent lens on it which, for what I will be using it for, will be better than a long zoom lens.
The Sony would be a good replacement for my existing Panasonic TZ100.
I have two versions and they are fabulous cameras even though they only fulfill a certain niche for me. They do require a certain amount of carefulness to prevent the extended barrel from taking any blows/knocks, otherwise they are well built and very discreet.
I got my (state-of-the-art obsolete) x100v (yes, I'm jealous now, sry Alan) last year, it looks like real camera - RX100 just does not qualify (even if it would be better camera).
Best comment what I received after getting x100v was "WHY?" - that made me happy ;)
Crop factors, BTW, are not useful for precise angles of view. The 1.5x sensor actually only crops the angle of view by 1.35x at 23mm. Crop factors only approach being accurate for determining AOV for very long focal lengths, where the tangent of half the angle approaches zero:
1.5x (FF) sensor crop at various real focal lengths, as an angular crop:
4mm: 1.06x - I don't know that there are any 4mm rectilinear FF lenses, but this is what you would get with a 4mm fl pinhole.
10mm: 1.18x
100mm: 1.49x
300mm: 1.4985608x
These are based on diagonals. Just as these are different for each other, they are different for height and width, too. That might explain why some people like to talk about FOV, because FOV with rectilinear lenses is very simple, and has no trigonometric variations. Photograph a ruler on a FF with a perfectly rectilinear lens, and you can easily get precise field cropping (2/3 the mms of the ruler recorded with 1.5x DX). Of course, there are very few wider-angle lenses that are perfectly rectilinear.
Recently, a topic in another popular forum that has generated overwhelming responses has been the question of " do you protect your lens with filters, hoods or nothing at all"? Being the new owner of a fixed lens camera, will you take extra measures to protect the lens that you might not take with an interchangeable lens.?
You don't notice how colored indoor light can be until you photograph the outdoors and the inside in the same photo.
Are you using incandescent lighting?
It is going out of style, partly because of the energy consumption compared to LEDs, but it is always good to look at "the big picture". Since it is winter in England, as long as you are in need of heat, an incandescent bulb will help you reach the temperature you want, and if the house is thermostat-controlled, then the incandescent bulbs will require less of the main type of heating. It is just as efficient as any other electric heating, unless the bulb is located in the window frame and half the light (including the heavy IR component) goes right out the window.
Of course, anyone living in an over-heated apartment is going to over-heat it even more with incandescent bulbs.
I also have fixed lens cameras but, even with interchangeable lenses, I made it a rule not to take a camera outside until it had a U.V./protection filter on it and often a hood too. As I remember, I’ve destroyed one hood and two filters but never a lens. I’ve never been a believer in the view that a filter will degrade the image as long as it’s a good brand, multi-coated filter and I’ve never seen any convincing evidence of it…