Photography advice:

Thought I'd start a thread on photography advice -- hopefully, many others will add theirs!

In no particular order:

1) Shoot using RAW (or RAW + jpg) format. You may not care about RAW now. You may never care. But if a time comes when you do care, you'll regret not having RAW files from your past photos to work with.

2) Unwanted motion blur is almost always more destructive than noise. Use an exposure time that is short enough to mitigate motion blur in your photos (unless, of course, motion blur is desirable or doesn't matter). Yes, this can make the photo more noisy, but you can mitigate noise with noise filtering software, whereas [undesirable] motion blur is typically a much bigger problem.

3) Achieve accurate focus. This might seem like a "duh" comment, but depending on how badly the focus is missed, it can absolutely ruin a photo.

4) Learn to process/edit photos with software. Don't let the camera and/or default settings of a RAW converter constrain you. Neither the OOC (out-of-the-camera) jpg nor the default RAW conversion settings are the "authority" as to what a "real photo" is or isn't. There's no pride in saying "straight-out-of-the-camera" as if that photo is somehow more of a photo than one that has been processed by you with skill and care. Of course, if, say, you're an event photographer and don't have time to individually process hundreds of photo, then, for sure, the camera's jpg engine and/or RAW converter defaults matter. Still, my advice is learn to processing/editing if even for those few special photos that "deserve" it.

5) Don't use this attachment for taking event photos:

Unless in Texas, Florida, or Tennessee -- should be fine, there. : )

Good solid advice, particularly about RAW. Good to see you onboard.

I processed some old D300 Raw files in up to date software and the difference was astounding, compared to what I could achieve with the software back then. Software has improved too over the years.

Sure, I’ll contribute one:

Don’t assume that using a DR (dynamic range) mode is going to somehow improve the dynamic range of all your photos. Using a DR mode that requires that you raise the ISO when base ISO is appropriate is doing quite the opposite - you will get some extra highlight headroom to work with, but often at the expense of noisier shadows and lower overall DR.
For jpeg shooters, DR modes can be helpful for protecting highlight detail in some high dynamic range situations, often in conjunction with exposure compensation, and particularly if you’re going to be shooting at a higher ISO anyway, but you really need to have a working understanding about what’s actually going on under the hood to make the best use of them. Shooting above base ISO 24/7 using a DR mode isn’t a great idea at all, and comes with some real downsides.

One of the more important photographic tips outthere
youtu.be/7-yEJhZ6FTg

With the latest cameras like the sony a74, raw files have became less relevant compared to past generation cameras. the jpgs are that good its hard to reproduce them using third party programs. i only use the raw files when i have a large studio shoot and use actions in photoshop to stream line the process. also noise is just not a problem of concern anymore as well. was at a party last night and my camera was used for a few shots and accidently set to iso 25600 . the images looked great no need for any noise reduction at all. Focus ! the latest cameras just dont miss period.

I use D-Range optimizer on my a74 purely because it flattens out the contrast and gives a more real-life look to my jpeg images.

I'm gonna have to doubt that. I won't question that the jpg engine delivers what you want or that it's difficult to simulate the camera's jpg engine with third party software. But, if you want a look different than what the jpg engine delivers, then RAW, as opposed to editing the OOC jpg, is the way to go.

I typically shoot at lower ISO settings, so noise is rarely an issue for me. However, it can be an issue with heavy processing.

For me, the main issue with AF is being able to move the AF point quickly and accurately. What I'd really like is if I could press a button and a dot would appear in the EVF that marked where in the frame I was looking. Press the button again and the AF locks on that point. Combine that with a responsive joystick, along with all the other modern features, and that would be awesome!

Isn't today's version the police choking you from behind when you're recording them? : )

About a month ago on the sony forums i put up a challenge and posted a link to to a raw file and who could process the very detailed bird image better than the jpeg :-)
from about 40 attempts by members useing all sorts of raw convertors, NO ONE could :-) was game set match to jpeg. i can remember doing the same with the pentax k7 for fine in camera sharpening. in camera had it all over any program and so it should.

i do the same, i still cant get used the joystick, still prefer the D pad.

I think there is no doubt about the importance of accurate focus. Just "how to" achieve this consistently is really the issue here.

For example, I take photos of cats. The moment I focused properly on them, they move 😂

Here is my short list:

Know your camera.
Modern cameras include sophisticated computers and lots of advanced settings and features. To get the most out of your camera under less than ideal conditions, it is important to understand how your camera works and all of the features.

Use default settings. It can be very disappointing to ruin a series of photos because your camera settings are messed up. Rather than try to check all the settings when you pick up your camera, it works better if you put your camera away using default settings you have chosen.

Understand the performance of your camera. Whenever I get a new camera I do a series of studies. I look at high ISO performance. Use of very high ISO settings will result in some noise and possible loss of details. Understand how high aperture settings result in diffraction and softening of the image. Investigate the effect of motion blur that results from shooting handheld at various shutter speeds. When the time comes that you need to make compromises in SS, ISO, and/or aperture settings, you will have a good feeling for making the best compromise decision and understanding what the results will be.

Spend time getting used to how your camera meters and makes automatic exposure settings. Most cameras provide a number of metering choices including use of an interpretive algorithm, center weighted and spot metering. If you understand how your camera meters you will get a good idea of when you will need to override the automated settings.

The technical consideration I mentioned so far are at a very basic, beginner level. The next major tool to understand is composition. Those stupid "rules" wouldn't get you very far. Instead study the masters of visual communication. For example, one of my main interests is landscape photography. The best place to start with the basics of composition is to look at the 17th century work of Claude Lorrain. The techniques he helped establish became almost a formula for landscape paintings and photography for the next 300 years and even into the current times. Overall it really helps to spend a lot of time looking at painting, photographs and other media of the visual arts.

I will stop here with the basics. Moving beyond to artistic intent, goals and vision is way more complicated than just understanding camera tech and skills such as composition.

I find that very hard to believe. Do it again on this forum. There is an (as yet unused) RAW Development Techniques forum for just these sorts of RAW challenges.

Excellent initiative 👍🏻

Nikon's 3D tracking is particularly effective, for me.
And I like AF-on to have (AF-C AF-S)
And the new eye and face tracking looks promising

An even shorter list

Stop reading forums. Pick up your camera, take photos, experiment. Be realistic with yourself about the results.