I went from using a Fuji Pro2 followed by Pro3 to use a Q2M. Since I picked up the Q2M about a year or so ago, my Fuji's have gotten little use. My normal workflow with the fuji was shooting raw and using Silver Efex. I also shoot raw on the Q2M. However, both produce nice jpegs. The Q2M is 47 MP and the Fuji is 26. On top of that the Q2M does not have a CFA so the effective resolution is the native resolution of 47. With a CFA camera one loses about half the resolution through the interpolation process to produce a true color image. On top of that sensitivity wise the monochrome sensor is about 1 stop better in DR because each pixel gets all the light. Those two differences show up with the Q2M images having smoother tonal gradations and about a stop more dynamic range. I find objectively the Q2M images are just richer. I think it is worth it. I still use my Pro3 but not much. If the 28 mm lens on the Q2M is too wide one has no options. So if I need a longer lens, I will us my Pro3. However, for anything up to about an equivalent of a 60 mm or so (FF equivalent) I just crop the Q2M. If I use my Pro3 - it is either with my 50 f2 or 90 f2 attached.
As far as glass filters, my experience has been as follows. Film was always a little over sensitive to the blue end of the spectrum. So in outdoor scenes some filtration will needed just to balance the light. The yellow filter or deep yellow (Ansel Adams called it "minus blue" ) was routinely used. What I have found with the Q2M is the spectral response of the sensor is much flatter than film - that is one can take a picture with blue sky without a filter it looks normal and natural. However, I have three different glass filters, yellow, light orange or deep yellow and light red. Over time I have found that the light orange lives on my camera. This filter provides nice skies along with pleasant skin tone rendering. I don't change the filter very often.