Simple settings for Learner for GH5 please?

Any suggestions please, briefly?

E.G. Is there a kind of Intelligent Auto Plus like on some other Panasonics?

Mike

iA+ is a general feature on every Panny camera, including GH5.

It is more intelligent than iA and give back some control to the shooter by Exposure Compensation.

However, shooting a flagship model with full auto mode might be good only for the very early learning stage IMHO.

Why not try A mode (if background blurry is important) or S mode (if shooting moving object):

A1) set the f/stop in A (the larger the aperture the more blurry background, e.g. f/1.4 > f/2.8 > f/4 etc) or,

A2) set the shutter speed in S (the faster shutter speed the less motion blur, e g. 1/1000" is faster than 1/100" etc),

B) use Auto ISO (set the ceiling to ISO3200),

C) look at the evf/LCD, if it looks too dark, set in +ev by Exposure Compensation until it is bright enough to your eye (or use -ev if it will be too bright),

D) acquire focus by half hitting the shutter button (the green box cover the aimed focus point),

E) take the shot.

Simple as that no matter it will be the first shot, or for any experience shooter. Take the WYSIWYG image in evf/LCD seriously. Don't P&S, do focus locking as much as possible. Trust your eye and use Exposure Compensation wisely.

My 2 cents.

I quite agree. Leaving the camera making decisions, means you are not making them, so don't learn. The semi automatic modes allow you to control one part of tjhe settings (chose the mode for the part you feel mosts needs control) and the camera picks other settings to work with what you select.

Don't be afraid to experiment & make mistakes when shooting subjects that you can shoot again. Reviewing such experiments can show you how steady YOU hold the camera (combined with the camera's stabilisation abilities), as well as giving a feel for Depth of Field, subject movement etc.

FWIW I prefer to use A when I want fast shutter speeds (shooting at wide apertures) & for deep DoF (small apertures), the viewfinder tells me the speed that corresponds to & I can revise my setting based on that if needs be. I don't normally use auto iso (it wasn't an option when I learn't).

I only switch to S when I want a particular speed such as for blurring aircraft propellers (usually 1/250 or thereabouts) .

There are those who claim full manual is the only way to learn but I feel learning one aspect at a time is less prone to failure. Manual comes into it's own when you want to force the camera to use specific settings (perhaps for fireworks, or stars, or with strobe lighting)

If you're facing a once in a lifetime opportunity without the time to adjust settings, then full auto will allow you to get the shot & go back to learning afterwards.