I did some tests when I first got it. Subjectively, handheld, in average light and at base ISO, the 102MP images didn't appear to have any more detail than the 45MP images from my Z7 with the best lens I have for it (Nikkor 24-70 f/2.8S). On a tripod, the difference becomes much more apparent, so in general, I don't feel it's worth carrying the extra weight and inconvenience of the GFX100S and its lenses (which are much heavier and need to be swapped more often due to their more limited focal range) unless I also factor in carrying a tripod with the GFX. I guess the more detail you can resolve, the more significant tiny vibrations become.
Obviously focal length and shutter speed are factors to consider too, but as I typically have to add around about an extra stop with the Fuji compared to the Nikon to get comparable DOF, I'm already dealing with longer exposures.
There is an additional factor when shooting in woodland though, there's typically not a lot of light knockng about in the first place, so even with the Z8 I'd need a tripod in most cases as I'm often looking at less than 1/10th second exposures and I know I can't reliably hand hold that sharply with either of those cameras.
The only camera I've ever been able to confidently shoot handheld in a woods with was the E-M1 MKII, With appropriate bracing technique I could easily get acceptably sharp hand held exposures with that camera at long-ish focal length that lasted for several seconds. Oddly enough, the O-M1 seems to be a step backwards in this department compared to my E-M1 MKII, unless I'm getting more wobbly in my old age.
In a way, the GFX has become my woodland camera, for when I'm not planning to walk significant distances and don't mind carrying a tripod. For most other purposes the Z8 is more suitable, particularly when there's a bit more altitude involved, I'd also trust the weather resistance on the Z8 a bit more than the Fuji, although I have no actual evidence to say the Fuji is less well protected than the Nikon, so that's just personal bias really.
I've had a number of Manfrotto tripods over the years, but mostly for video work when I used to do a lot of that some years ago. They're solid, but a bit heavy and not something I ever fancied carrying up into the hills.
For a time I was using a Benro Mach 3 carbon fibre model with a Three Legged Thing ball head. It was okay, but the tripod became a bit frustrating over time as the leg hinges became sloppy, such that the legs wouldn't remain in the closed position and tend to swing out when carried, or even, swing in when setting up. It was possible to tighten the bolt at the hinge, but it was tricky to get a good balance between it being too tight or too sloppy.
On top of that, when I got the GFX, I felt this wasn't giving me a suitably rigid amount of support, particularly with one of the bigger lenses attached (such as the 45-100 or worse, the 100-200) as it exhibited a lot of resonance and the ball head could be difficult to lock accurately in position, tending to droop a bit once I'd locked it and took the support from my hand away.
I replaced the tripod with an iFootage Gazelle TC7. It's a tall three section carbon fibre tripod with no centre column. I'm 6ft and on level ground, fully extended, the tripod puts the camera slightly too high for me. The legs are locked with latches rather than the rotating collars the Benro had, which I find much easier to use with gloved hands. It's a similar weight, but feels a lot more solid, exhibiting less whip and resonance than the Benro.
I'm using this with a Leofoto VH30R pan and tilt head. This feels solid and doesn't droop when locked off. A pan and tilt head would be awkward to use with a regular photography tripod as it relies on having the top of the tripod (where the head attaches) level for pan and tilt motions to remain on axis, but the TC7 has a killer feature, an integrated levelling bowl.
Basically, this allows you to just set your tripod up roughly level without any need for fine adjustment of the leg lengths, then you simply unlock the levelling bowl (which is a partial hemisphere sat in a dish) allowing the base the head is attached to, to be very quickly levelled off by sliding the hemisphere around in its dish. Once that's done, you lock the levelling bowl off and your pan and tilt actions are all from a level base. It works really well allowing very quick setup of the tripod. I much prefer a pan and tilt head to a ball head.
So that's what I'm currently using. It's not excessively heavy (I carried it partway up a mountain along with the GFX kit when I took the tarn photos back in July/August), quick to set up and seems solid enough for a big heavy camera like the GFX100S (and in particular, its heavy lenses). It's also, relatively speaking, not very expensive, at least, not compared to the likes of Gitzo.
Not much to photograph here at present, due to the weather. I captured these ice carvings in Port Huron, Michigan, at the end of January 2003. I was, and still am, amazed at the craftsmanship and artistry of the people who made them. The carvers came from all over, and each was supplied with a space on the main street and blocks of ice. The carving was done with power tools.
Thanks for your kind comments. I think I have improved at taking photos since then, though the best reults from that camera were superb -- and would be better had I used raw files in those days.