I know it’s subjective, but what’s your opinion of the highest usable ISO setting for an X-Pro 3 without using one of the fancy AI denoisers (I only have Capture 1 v21).
Feb. 23, 2024
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It is subjective. For me, with my X-T5, I didn't use to go over 3200, but I do have a 'fancy AI denoiser' and now 12,800 is no issue.
Have you tried taking pictures at different ISO's and seeing what is acceptable to you?
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Tomorrow’s job! Prior to buying the M10R, I never used more than twice base ISO on any digital camera I ever owned. Winter, slightly shakier hands and the very high sharpness obtainable with the M10R caused me to need to raise the ISO to obtain the shutter speeds that I needed and I was very favourably surprised by the results, so I thought I’d try it with the X Pro 3. Tomorrow I’ve only one shot at getting right and the weather forecast is lousy. I think I’ll need the 10mm end of the Fuji zoom or even the Samyang fisheye, so it’s got to be the XPro and this is just part of thinking it all through!
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Alan's advice to "suck it and see" is good; but it wouldnt do any harm to download a trial version of one of the "fancy AI denoisers" (I use Photolab for miracles) and test it out with raw files. You might be amazed enough to want to save up for the full licence! At least you will know what is state of the art.
I do my tests on a bookcase full of books and records in my home, under subdued lighting.
David
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Tried DXO with my x100v lately. ISO12800 is good with denoising AI, makes me save not only for Photolab, but for graphic card too - it took about minute to denoise single image on my old intel video (and I got many images at 12800...). Without AI denoising ISO3200 is almost usable, depends on scene and illumination.
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In the event, there was no need to think about high ISO values: despite an appalling weather forecast, there was bright sunshine. I’m posting a couple of photos of the thing (‘artwork’, ‘installation’?) in another thread for C&C.
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Determining ISO limits is among my very first priorities with any new digital camera.
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With recent digital cameras, i don't worry about ISO. I set aperture and speed to get sufficient DOF and as little or much motion blur that seems acceptable, choose EV compensation according to scene and artistic intention, and let the camera decide the ISO (Auto).
With analog cameras, my first priority always was which film canister to choose. Back then my ISO limit was 64, too much grain on faster films.
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Yes: it is true, one needs a fast GPU to make life enjoyable with some of the DXO processes, and they are either expensive or unavailable. Otherwise, saving files can be like watching paint dry, and the temptation to overdose on cups of tea or coffee kicks in! 😁
David
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Bear in mind that you dont have to shoot at ISO12800, you can underexpose at 1600 (or 800 instead of 6400) and push the Raws three or four stops. There is no real noise penalty and you will capture far more dynamic range.
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That will depend on the sensor, and how deep the shadows go. If it is a flatly-lit scene, and the light color is close to the native color balance of the sensor, then you may see no visible noise difference. If the light is deep shade or halogen, and there are significant shadow areas, then you may see more noise if the sensor uses different analog gain at the two ISO settings, especially with cameras with banding noise in base-ISO shadows..
