I can't think of any reason why we couldn't be shown that all of the time that the EVF or LCD is active. There are always settings in place before we half-press.
I can't think of any reason why we couldn't be shown that all of the time that the EVF or LCD is active. There are always settings in place before we half-press.
Yes, my X-T5 does that. It's irritating that it shows max value until you half press.
Alan
@SrMi has written:Increasing ISO has no detrimental effect on image quality. However, the lower exposure (shutter speed and aperture) causes degradation (noise). If your shutter speed and aperture stay the same, the image will have the same noise at ISO 1600 as at ISO 6400.
Here you need to differentiate between amount of noise and visible noise.
In the scenario you describe the amount of noise will be the same, because the exposure* is the same, but in ISO 6400 shot more of that noise will be visible.
... assuming that you did not normalize brightness. If you normalized it, the 6400 should be less noisy-looking with many cameras, and I think that normalization is a "given" in this context.
In sincerity, the white balance looks off to me. I’d need to look at it very critically to know if it would be suitable for putting on the museum’s website or annual report. I’d generally say it’s not quite usable for such a purpose.
Many museums use very-warm broad-spectrum lights that create a lot of near-infrared which can put a magenta/purple cast on the objects based on their NIR reflectance. It's not an easy thing to fix. People who have cameras that are more sensitive to NIR need to be aware of the problem with "very warm" broad-spectrum lighting. This may be addressable with filters, but filters will lose some visible light, too, and the light may already be too low in such places.
If it's a relatively static scene, then yeah. Go for your life in M mode. But when there's a bit of action going on, with not enough time to be fiddling around setting 2 or 3 different variables, then A mode for me.
I have found that the highlights in many dynamic scenes don't change much. In the two examples you posted, it doesn't look like they will.
I think the only advantage of A mode is saving time in post.
Something that was I think not mentioned so far. Many cameras at some point in the ISO range turn to multiplication [increasing values by a certain factor] and/or tagging [instructing the rendering app to increase lightness]. Could the processor in a PC do this better, meaning having the Auto ISO maxing at the change over point could be useful?
Lr definitely does a better job of pushing than pure multiplication.
Auto-ISO setting typically has two components: minimum shutter speed and maximum ISO value.
I do not understand the point of having an upper ISO limit lower than the maximum ISO value.
In A mode, hitting the upper limit will cause the shutter speed to fall below the safe value, causing blurred images.
Your arguments are based on the assumption that the minimum shutter speed is set to the absolute minimum that is tolerable, right on the edge of risking motion blur.
I'd rather increase that minimum shutter speed and set the max ISO a bit lower, hence having a better chance of avoiding motion blur at lower ISO, yet not push the camera to max ISO by doing so.
@sagittarius has written: @DannoLeftForums has written: @Ghundred has written:As Danno pointed out, what I've found that seems to please me, is to use the maximum aperture that will give acceptable DOF for the scene, minimum ISO that still provides the desired or required shutter speed, and try to avoid large exposure/shadow pushes.
That is what I used to do as well, experiment/fiddle with ISO while in aperture priority until it gave me the shutter speed I wanted.
If you have a few spare minutes some time, you might consider doing this quick and simple experiment to see if you can be a little more efficient in getting the shutter speed you want.
Put the camera on a tripod and aim it at a scene with constant scene lighting.
Set Aperture priority mode and aperture to suit the scene. Let's assume you set f/8. Set metering mode to evaluative/matrix.
Now lets assume you need 1/800s shutter speed to freeze the motion in the scene. You fiddle with ISO settings 1 or 2 times and find you need to set ISO 400 for the camera to set 1/800s shutter speed.
Now set the camera in Manual + Auto ISO mode.
Lock in f/8 and 1/800s and meter the scene.
The Auto ISO should set ISO 400, the same value you set manually after experimenting with it in step 3.
So, when I know the aperture and shutter speeds I want I find that either Manual + Auto ISO or Aperture priority + Auto ISO + minimum shutter speed are the most efficient modes for me. I don't need to fiddle ISO to get the desired shutter speed.
What if you are hiking and see a bird flying for which you need a shutter speed of 1/2000. Next you see a flower for which you might need 1/50. But in A + Auto ISO minimum SS set to one value. I've found that the only mode which gives you this flexibility is M + auto ISO.
Set the minimum shutter speed to a function button.
On my Nikon Z9 you can only change ISO value, not the minimum shutter speed. On Z 7II and Z6 II you cannot get to the ISO sensitivity feature at all via Fn button
@bobn2 has written: @DannoLeftForums has written:I think whether you use M + Auto ISO or Av + Auto ISO + min shutter speed simply comes down to personal preference. I use both modes depending on the situation.
If camera manufacturers would provide a custom setting to put minimum shutter speed directly on the second control wheel, that would be the best option.
Now how it would be different from M?
In M mode, the shutter speed does not change and can lead to overexposure once the base ISO is reached.
In A mode, the camera's metering will increase the shutter speed when necessary to prevent overexposure.
In M mode, the shutter speed does not change and can lead to overexposure once the base ISO is reached.
I use a completely different exposure philosophy if it is possible to use base ISO.
@sagittarius has written: @bobn2 has written: @DannoLeftForums has written:I think whether you use M + Auto ISO or Av + Auto ISO + min shutter speed simply comes down to personal preference. I use both modes depending on the situation.
If camera manufacturers would provide a custom setting to put minimum shutter speed directly on the second control wheel, that would be the best option.
Now how it would be different from M?
In M mode, the shutter speed does not change and can lead to overexposure once the base ISO is reached.
In A mode, the camera's metering will increase the shutter speed when necessary to prevent overexposure.
On the other hand if your minimum shutter speed is high, it might lead to unnecessary high ISO.
@Ghundred has written: @sagittarius has written: @DannoLeftForums has written: @Ghundred has written:As Danno pointed out, what I've found that seems to please me, is to use the maximum aperture that will give acceptable DOF for the scene, minimum ISO that still provides the desired or required shutter speed, and try to avoid large exposure/shadow pushes.
That is what I used to do as well, experiment/fiddle with ISO while in aperture priority until it gave me the shutter speed I wanted.
If you have a few spare minutes some time, you might consider doing this quick and simple experiment to see if you can be a little more efficient in getting the shutter speed you want.
Put the camera on a tripod and aim it at a scene with constant scene lighting.
Set Aperture priority mode and aperture to suit the scene. Let's assume you set f/8. Set metering mode to evaluative/matrix.
Now lets assume you need 1/800s shutter speed to freeze the motion in the scene. You fiddle with ISO settings 1 or 2 times and find you need to set ISO 400 for the camera to set 1/800s shutter speed.
Now set the camera in Manual + Auto ISO mode.
Lock in f/8 and 1/800s and meter the scene.
The Auto ISO should set ISO 400, the same value you set manually after experimenting with it in step 3.
So, when I know the aperture and shutter speeds I want I find that either Manual + Auto ISO or Aperture priority + Auto ISO + minimum shutter speed are the most efficient modes for me. I don't need to fiddle ISO to get the desired shutter speed.
What if you are hiking and see a bird flying for which you need a shutter speed of 1/2000. Next you see a flower for which you might need 1/50. But in A + Auto ISO minimum SS set to one value. I've found that the only mode which gives you this flexibility is M + auto ISO.
Set the minimum shutter speed to a function button.
On my Nikon Z9 you can only change ISO value, not the minimum shutter speed. On Z 7II and Z6 II you cannot get to the ISO sensitivity feature at all via Fn button
It is unfortunate that we cannot assign Auto ISO (or d9 settings) to function buttons with Nikons while other manufacturers allow it. I have added it to MyMenu,
@JimKasson has written:You can push in the camera, or you can push in the raw developer. If the black point calibration in the raw developer is accurate, and you don't push more than four or five stops, there is little difference except you'll have better control of the highlights pushing in post.
The size of the sensor is not a variable here, since you can crop a large sensor to get the same effective sensor size as a smaller one.
Which is why I wrote I prefer to use larger aperture primes on a smaller sensor. More light collected, at the expense of less DOF. Without getting into the whole equivalence roundabout/argument.
Less DOF than what other option? Less than with a slower lens, AOTBE, but not less DOF than a FF camera and lens giving the same photon noise and image-level diffraction. It's always down to the pupil size, and distance from the subject, for these three parameters for a given subject in given light and a given exposure time.
With M + Auto ISO, I can change the shutter speed quicker than with A + Auto ISO (need to go into menus). However, when the light is bright, and I may hit base ISO, A + Auto ISO is safer. With M + Auto ISO, I can accidentally clip the highlights as the shutter speed does not increase as with A + Auto ISO.
There's no reason that a camera couldn't have an option to increase the shutter speed beyond that set by the user in M mode, to avoid clipping highlights. That could be useful with both manual ISO and auto-ISO. Canon has already provided an option in some recent cameras that can change shutter speed in M mode when you zoom a zoom or add/remove TCs, so Canon could not claim that the option that I wish for would "go against the spirit of Manual".
I tend to use manual + Auto ISO when the lighting is fairly constant and/or when using a tripod.
If the camera is on a tripod, presumably you have plenty of time. In that situation, what possible advantage does auto ISO offer?
@sagittarius has written: @Ghundred has written: @sagittarius has written: @DannoLeftForums has written: @Ghundred has written:As Danno pointed out, what I've found that seems to please me, is to use the maximum aperture that will give acceptable DOF for the scene, minimum ISO that still provides the desired or required shutter speed, and try to avoid large exposure/shadow pushes.
That is what I used to do as well, experiment/fiddle with ISO while in aperture priority until it gave me the shutter speed I wanted.
If you have a few spare minutes some time, you might consider doing this quick and simple experiment to see if you can be a little more efficient in getting the shutter speed you want.
Put the camera on a tripod and aim it at a scene with constant scene lighting.
Set Aperture priority mode and aperture to suit the scene. Let's assume you set f/8. Set metering mode to evaluative/matrix.
Now lets assume you need 1/800s shutter speed to freeze the motion in the scene. You fiddle with ISO settings 1 or 2 times and find you need to set ISO 400 for the camera to set 1/800s shutter speed.
Now set the camera in Manual + Auto ISO mode.
Lock in f/8 and 1/800s and meter the scene.
The Auto ISO should set ISO 400, the same value you set manually after experimenting with it in step 3.
So, when I know the aperture and shutter speeds I want I find that either Manual + Auto ISO or Aperture priority + Auto ISO + minimum shutter speed are the most efficient modes for me. I don't need to fiddle ISO to get the desired shutter speed.
What if you are hiking and see a bird flying for which you need a shutter speed of 1/2000. Next you see a flower for which you might need 1/50. But in A + Auto ISO minimum SS set to one value. I've found that the only mode which gives you this flexibility is M + auto ISO.
Set the minimum shutter speed to a function button.
On my Nikon Z9 you can only change ISO value, not the minimum shutter speed. On Z 7II and Z6 II you cannot get to the ISO sensitivity feature at all via Fn button
It is unfortunate that we cannot assign Auto ISO (or d9 settings) to function buttons with Nikons while other manufacturers allow it. I have added it to MyMenu,
You cannot change shutter speed in auto ISO in my menu on Z9, but you can on Z 7II and Z 6II
Do opinions change if after a certain ISO noise reduction is applied, say 6400?
Some camera manufacturers appear to be applying some form of noise reduction (that isn't user controllable) after a certain ISO. -based on what I saw on that photonstophotons link earlier.
o opinions change if after a certain ISO noise reduction is applied, say 6400?
Some camera manufacturers appear to be applying some form of noise reduction (that isn't user controllable) after a certain ISO. -based on what I saw on that photonstophotons link earlier.
My philosophy of a raw image workflow is to never do anything in camera that can't be done at least as well in postproduction.