Steve,
With the Canon RP I have complete control of the settings when taking a HDR photo. For my sample image I selected 35mm FL, F9, 1/250th of a second and auto ISO. I think that's the difference I have from what you have. Is that what you understand?
Can you show us a sample HDR image from your Canon T8i (850D) camera? It's exciting to be able to produce such images without software on our computer.
Subject: Flooding
Here's some flooding we have had the last few days. Fortunately, the "atmospheric river" rains have stopped for a while, so the flooding may not be as severe.
Photo No. 1 - I took this picture from a moving car last Sunday.
Model - Canon EOS M50m2
ExposureTime - 1/1000 seconds
FNumber - 7.10
ISOSpeedRatings - 1250
ExposureBiasValue - -0.33
FocalLength - 36 mm
Lens Model - EF-M15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM
Photo No. 2 - Here we see the fields not flooded, just a lot of mud next to the roadway.
Model - Canon EOS M50m2
ExposureTime - 1/1000 seconds
FNumber - 7.10
ISOSpeedRatings - 2000
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 26 mm
Lens Model - EF-M15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM
Photo No. 3 - The once-small stream is flooded.
Model - Canon EOS M50m2
ExposureTime - 1/1000 seconds
FNumber - 7.10
ISOSpeedRatings - 4000
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 17 mm
Lens Model - EF-M15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM
Photo No. 4 - And some more water has settled here.
Model - Canon EOS M50m2
ExposureTime - 1/1000 seconds
FNumber - 7.10
ISOSpeedRatings - 3200
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 17 mm
Lens Model - EF-M15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM
Photo No. 5 - I took this photo today. This is the Tualatin River, which has started to overflow the banks and flood surrounding areas.
Model - Canon EOS RP
ExposureTime - 1/250 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 200
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 28 mm
Lens Model - RF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM
Photo No. 6 - Areas like this....
Model - Canon EOS RP
ExposureTime - 1/160 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 1000
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 24 mm
Lens Model - RF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM
Photo No. 7 - Again the Tualatin River....
Model - Canon EOS RP
ExposureTime - 1/200 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 500
ExposureBiasValue - 0.33
FocalLength - 33 mm
Lens Model - RF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM
Photo No. 8 - The water from the Tualatin River flows into this pond. This is where I see Wood Ducks sometimes.
Model - Canon EOS RP
ExposureTime - 1/250 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 10000
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 35 mm
Lens Model - RF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM
I hope you liked seeing some of our flooded areas in Oregon. We get lots of rain during the winter months normally. It's been a little dry this autumn, so for that reason the rains are welcome.
Again nice sets @Digirame 👍
That river does bring back memories in a strange way:
Back in the days I did some overclocking and modding and the socket 370 Tualatin core Celeron/Pentium CPUs were nice powerfull CPUs back in those days 😎
Dig,
Here's an example I took this morning The lens is a 55-250 IS STM. White Balance is at 5400K. The time is about 9:15 AM:
Shot# 1 is a standard exposure taken in Manual Mode with Auto ISO. The settings are 1/200th of a sec at f/7.1 ISO 640.
Shot# 2 The same scene taken in HDR Vivid, handheld The Scene mode kicked the shutter speed up to 1/2500th, and the ISO up to 4000. It also dropped the aperture down to f/5.0.
Shot# 3 Just out of curiosity, I converted the HDR to grayscale in Irfanview
Steve Thomas
Photobygms,
Thanks. I'm glad you enjoyed seeing a little of our flooding. Today the sun came out and there were no clouds. But it was probably about 32F or 0C this morning, as I did see some frost. A little trivia: Intel apparently "borrowed" the name Tualatin from the name of the indigenous tribe that lived here, that river, our valley, road and/or town. The native Amierican Tualatin tribe may have originally been called "Atfalati" from what I read. I knew that the early spelling of that name was "Twality".
Steve,
Thanks for sharing with us your HDR photo. We'll have to look for other times when we see bright lighting and dark shadows in the same location.
Hi Digirame,
I've never had a paper jam yet and I did all my Christmas cards with it and those are thick card as well, I was a little concerned over the weight of the cards but they went through with no problems. The printer opens in half just by lifting so you can refill the colours but also you can see the pathway of the paper run. One thing with this printer you can see the inks in the individual tanks and know how long before you need to buy a new one(ink).
I've seen your HDR and its impessive how it has dealt with the shadows mainly but also some highlights.
Mocha,
Thanks for letting me know about the printer. Maybe I'll get one of those. They are only about $249 (USD) where I live.
I'm glad you liked the HDR image. I shared with you all the settings I used. A person could try different ones. When I get time I could do that. For now, I put it in Auto for adjusting the dynamic range and picked Art Standard for the Effect. I liked that it did not brighten up the shadows too much (using Auto) because it made it similar to how our eye/brain would see it naturally.
Hi Digirame,
Thats how I think also, how I see it in real life. 👍 👍
Subject: Some More Things I Learned Recently
I thought some of you might be interested what I have discovered so far with the Canon RP. In addition to now being able to use a HDR mode and silent shutter, I now found a way to shut off that viewfinder/screen sensor so you can either use the screen full time or the viewfinder full time. See "display settings" in the menu for that. That always annoyed me when I would use the Canon M50 Mark II. So I checked and found that "display settings" in that menu also. I didn't know that was there. I would mention that on the Dpreview M series forum many times and nobody seem to know how to shut that sensor off. But it's there, plain as day.
So what also I have done with the Canon M50 Mark II cameras I have and the Canon RP is create custom menus. Did you know you can do that? It's the "star" on the far right side of the menu. For the Canon M50 Mark II cameras, I created a custom menu so I can quickly deactivate that sensor if I want. Then for the Canon RP I created three custom menus. First is to be able to take pictures with a silent shutter, secondly to be able to take in-camera HDR images and thirdly to shut that sensor off when I want to do that. You don't have to have custom menus, but it's convenient because your favorite menu items you change a lot are all in one place under the star.
Let me share with you one reason why that viewfinder/screen sensor is so annoying. Yesterday I was testing the camera, using the silent shutter and LCD screen and was just about to take the picture, when the LCD screen went blank. Then the interesting thing that I was trying to photograph was gone. What happens is that sensor doesn't know the difference between your face and your heavy coat or the camera bag that got too close. In my case my camera bag sometime moves closer to the front of my body and that sensor is triggered. That's happened previously with the Canon M50 Mark II also. Thank goodness I can get rid of that sensor shutting off the LCD screen unexpectedly.
How about that? There's always something new to learn. 😀
@Digirame I still always enjoy seeing your wood-ducks.
A few different thoughts:
MyMenu is a really great feature IMO, I used it a lot on the 7D.
The Canon M6 II seems to be really popular on the dpreview EOS-M forum. There's a lot of impressive photos posted that I wouldn't expect to be taken with a M series camera. Example.
DxO denoising is absolutely wonderful, and PhotoLab is a very nice RAW processor, though the DeepPRIME denoising is quite computer resource intensive. There's a couple of threads (actually also on the EOS-M forum) full of tips on using DxO software, which are admittably mainly based on the M series cameras, but I think there's still some useful tips.
Looks great!
Not to be outdone by Digi, I went out this evening to see how my new camera handles street scenes at night. I was amazed to see that with the normal automatic setting the jpg result out of the camera was much brighter than reality. (I will say that this is not a well-lit street -- headlights are needed when driving!)
This is the raw file, made darker by 1.5EV and with a little noise reduction. I think I am still erring on the side of too bright in comparison with real life, but that would make a totally boring photo!
David
The difference between using the camera to produce HDR photos directly, rather than using "digital darkroom software", is that the camera decides what is important. Were I doing this photo from a raw file, in Photolab, I dont think I would have lightened the inside of the roof as much as, absent any frescos (!), it is not the most important part of the photo. Shooting raw gives me much more control and doesnt take as long as one might imagine when capabilities of the program have been mastered. (And I actually like messing around in post processing -- and taking the shot in such a way that the post processing can give me what I hope for.)
Just my 2 euro cents worth!
David
Dunlin,
Thanks for taking a look at the Wood Duck photos. On some days this is not easy. It depends on whether or not they visit this one pond where I find the best opportunities.
I had thought about buying a Canon M6 Mark II before buying the Canon M50 Mark II, but it did not have a viewfinder. I find a viewfinder to be too important, particularly when I'm taking low shutter speed photos and/or I am concerned a lot about composition. This evening I was using the LCD screen but switched to using the viewfinder when I found it to be necessary. Not everyone is concerned about that, but a lot of people use viewfinders. You could add a viewfinder to the camera, although...but that was extra cost too. I think the "new and improved" Canon M6 Mark II, is the Canon R7.
David,
That's great you are out there taking photos at night. 😀 It's nice to see your photos.
David,
Thanks for taking a look at my HDR photo. Yes, it's best to take photos RAW and post process them on the computer, but typically I like to spend more time out taking pictures than messing with them on the computer. The HDR photo that was produced by the camera for me, was exactly what I wanted. Previously I had tried to create a HDR photo with software and it was no where near as good as what the Canon RP developed in-camera for me. The previous attempt at making HDR photos was when I showed some Mt. St. Helen pictures. I can't remember if that was on Dpreview or Dprevived.
In the Canon RP, I had somewhere near 15 other HDR choices to pick. That's why I listed the ones I used. There's four choices for the "Adjust Dynamic Range" and maybe four "Effect" options. I can't remember exactly, without looking at my camera menu again. I thought about using all HDR options. Some day, I should do that and then make comparisons.
I assume you also should be able to create in-camera HDR photos. If you have time, it would be interesting to see them and then maybe one more that was made with software. What I liked about the Canon RP is that I could make these HDR photos hand-held, with the "Auto Image Align".
Again, thanks for taking a look at my first display of an in-camera HDR photo. I took one more this late afternoon of a building. It turned out rather well. I'm still practicing with the Canon RP, pushing the boundaries and having a ton of fun.
Subject: Blue Buildings
These building are not blue in the day, but the surrounding night-time lights make them look blue. I hope you like these. I'm enjoying playing around with the Canon RP, experimenting with the different settings.
Photo No. 1
Model - Canon EOS RP
ExposureTime - 1/10 seconds
FNumber - 5.60
ISOSpeedRatings - 6400
ExposureBiasValue - -0.33
FocalLength - 24 mm
Lens Model - RF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM
Photo No. 2
Model - Canon EOS RP
ExposureTime - 1/40 seconds
FNumber - 4
ISOSpeedRatings - 10000
ExposureBiasValue - -0.33
FocalLength - 24 mm
Lens Model - RF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM
The next two photos are the same as above, only brightened a little. Which do you prefer?
Photo No. 3
Model - Canon EOS RP
ExposureTime - 1/10 seconds
FNumber - 5.60
ISOSpeedRatings - 6400
ExposureBiasValue - -0.33
FocalLength - 24 mm
Lens Model - RF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM
Photo No. 4
Model - Canon EOS RP
ExposureTime - 1/40 seconds
FNumber - 4
ISOSpeedRatings - 10000
ExposureBiasValue - -0.33
FocalLength - 24 mm
Lens Model - RF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM
