Anyone else shooting UV?

Thanks for adding this special section. I'm using a Kolari Vision modified, full spectrum, Pentax K-1 with Hoya U360 and Schott S8612 2mm filter stack. Lenses are Igoriginal 35mm clone, 35mm Super Takumar, Nikon metal EL NIKKOR 80 & 135 enlarging lenses, Meyer 180 Tele-Megor, and Pentax Takumar 500 F4.5. UV photography is challenging, but I really enjoy the unseen world.
Thanks,
barondla

So far, my efforts to get UV capture working have failed. I'd love to see some samples of your UV work!

I only started shooting UV last year. It isn't easy. Sunlight is only about 3% UV. That doesn't give us a lot to work with. Learned a lot of important tips from ultraviolet photography dot com. Will try to post a picture here.

What are you having trouble with? Exposure, light leaks, white balance? What equipment are you using, including lens and filters? Who modified the camera?
Thanks,
barondla

I have a Panasonic GF2 modified to be full spectrum by LifePixel.com and a B+W UV pass filter. I found that with my modern lenses, that combination would show much more infrared in my captures than UV as the B+W Ultraviolet filter I'm using still allows a fair bit of IR through. I've tried all of my modern lenses and about a half a dozen vintage lenses on adapters (mostly old 35mm f/3.5 designs) that were theoretically better at transmitting UV. As mentioned, so far the IR has swamped any UV in the capture using that combination. Another user pointed out that it's possible the "full spectrum" optical glass is still blocking UV. Unfortunately I really don't have the tools to figure out exactly what is going on.

Not sure which Schott filter # you are using? My guess is it is a colored dye (absorption) filter. These filters cut out daylight but leak a fair amount of IR. Unfortunately, the fair amount of IR is still a magnitude stronger than the 3% of UV in sunlight. You need to add another filter to block the IR. Notice the two filters in my 1st post. The Hoya U360 allows UV through and blocks daylight. This filter looks black to the eye. The Schott S8612 is a pale blue and blocks the IR. So all that is left is the UV. The only filter types that can do UV with a single filter are the dichroic types. Most famous is the Baader U astronomical filter. Photo below was taken with Vivitar 105mm 3 element enlarging lens. It is using the starter UV filters from Igoriginal instead of my Hoya/Schott stack.

Did you buy the UV kit with 35mm F3.5 lens on ebay from Igoriginal? if so the two filters he supplies work great for UV. Most modern lenses pass very little if any UV. Plenty of people use full spectrum cameras by LifePixel for UV. Doubt the camera is your problem.
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The filters in my Igoriginal UV kit are ZWB 1 (black) 2mm thick, and BG39 2.3mm thick (light blue). Thickness affects the amount of filtering on dye filters. @Athena hold your filter up to sunlight, can you see any red leakage? If so you must add an IR blocking filter to your Schott. If you don't have a blue filter they are available on ebay from Tangsinuo (hope spelling is correct). Make sure you end up with 2mm or more. Even if it means stacking two blue filters.
If you have more questions just ask.
Thanks,
barondla

My efforts to date have provided a single under exposed image with possible UV character, and a selection with infra red contamination.
It's something I intend to revisit, now I have a second 'full spectrum' converted camera. My converted GF2 seems to have poor UV response perhaps due to the fairly thick sensor stack even after the hot mirror was removed. The A7ii, had the hot mirror replaced with quartz and also had the AA filter removed so should be better.
Since my last efforts I have collected a S8612 filter to try stacked with U330 or U340 filters. I've also collected a number of UV light sources, the modified flash is the most promising, but UV LEEDs will no doubt help too.
Lens wise I have the el-nikkor enlarging lens recommended by Dr Klaus Schmitt, and will also try some single element systems with high UV transmission.
All it needs now is for me to dig everything out & find time to have a play - preferably with good sunshine available...

Some UV-rated lenses www.naturfotograf.com/lens_spec.html
Examples and techniques www.naturfotograf.com/uvstart.html

I've seen Hoya U340 & U360 used often with Schott S8612 and they work well. The S8612 seems unmatched for IR blocking. Not sure about the UV response of the Panasonic sensor. If the sensor is similar to the Pana ff camera, it could be great. One of the ultraviolightphotography dot com owners uses the ff Pana for UV.

Are you aiming for UV A range or B? For A, Dandelions make a good test subject. The yellow bloom should show a black bull's-eye center. This doesn't take incredible UV reach to pull off. My Super Takumar 35 and Meyer Tele-Megor 180 both manage it. The Igoriginal (Kuri clone) 35 and metal EL-NIKKOR 80 enlarging lens go deeper into UV. I've not found the difference big for the landscapes and flowers I shoot.

I had numerous problems light sealing the helicoids and connections. In the beginning, the EL-NIKKOR metal 135 set-up was so leaky it had to be used inside the Pentax bellows. Camera bodies can also leak. Some mirrorless cameras use UV LEDs to monitor the shutter. A big hurdle.

Are your LEDs 365nm? Flash is more like sunlight and covers a broader range. UV is worth the considerable effort. Don't give up.
Thanks,
barondla

Cross posted in Today With Your Pentax. Tywappity Lake in UV. Pentax K-1 with metal EL-NIKKOR 85mm enlarging lens. Hoya U360 (2mm thick) and Schott S8612 (2mm thick) stacked filters. ISO 1600, F8 at 5 seconds. The wind was making things difficult.
Thanks for looking,
barondla

@simplejoy asked in a Pentax thread about my use of the metal El-Nikkor 80mm enlarging lens vs. the 63mm. Posting the answer here to avoid derailing the @JCDoss thread. This UV thread needs more posts.

I don't own the El-Nikkor 63. According to Ultraviolet Photography dot com the 63, 80, 105, and 135 perform similarly in UV. I happened on a mint metal 80 and purchased it. Love it. The 63 working distance might be too short for my macro use. Wouldn't leave much room for UV flash to reach the subject. The lens would allow a brighter viewing image and could be useful for still life and landscapes. I'll have to keep my eye out for one.

Luckily, I already own the El-Nikkor metal 135 from my 4×5 enlarger days. RAF Camera sells the weird size filter adapter rings to reach 52mm. The helicoids are various models from Asia. I also use a Pentax bellows at times.
www.ultravioletphotography.com/content/index.php?/topic/2207-el-nikkor-rough-and-ready-test/
Thanks,
barondla

This is an UltraViolet Induced Visual Fluorescence (UVIVF) photo. Some subjects lit by UV emit visual light. Light purity matters a lot. Used "Nemo" 365nm flashlight with built in filter to illuminate subject. The flashlight filter eliminates anything approaching visible light. Stock Pentax 645Z camera, Pentax A series 120 macro with Tiffen Haze 2A. The haze filter eliminates UV contamination of the visual fluorescence.

UV image. Pentax K-1 full spectrum modified by Kolari Vision. Nikon El-Nikkor 135mm metal enlarging lens. Added a Canon C-6 front teleconverter for more magnification. More glass is usually avoided since it reduces UV light. This giant, over 3" across, converter seems to work fine in this situation. Probably helps that it has very little, if any, lens coatings. Used my filter standard stack, of Hoya U360/Schott S8612, to remove visible and IR light. ISO 400, F11 at 30". Most things are colorless in UV. The blooms are an exception.

Thanks for looking,
barondla

It's not just converting the camera, it's the lens coating.
Because ML can use just about any adapted lens, picking up a used whatever focal length you want and then polishing off the lens coating as Bjørn describes is the way to get UV.

Removing lens coatings can increase UV transmission. It isn't a guarantee of great UV performance. If the lens is made of glass that blocks UV, and most glass does, removing the coatings may increase performance very little. A better plan might be to use lenses that already test well for UV transmission. El-Nikkors, Kuri 35, and other "accidental" UV lenses have risen in price, but are still affordable for most people.

UV photography is rewarding and enjoyable. Let's see everyone's UV pictures!
Thanks,
barondla

Everytime I go to that lens spec list, I'm just floored by the amount of high grade special lenses there... quite impressive!

I'm not sure if I can ever convince myself to try UV/IR or anything else in that vein... I won't convert my new camera for sure, but I've just looked at the prices for converting my old 5D Mark IV and + shipping etc. that's a big chunk of money. I looked at Kolari Vision though, which seems to be based in the US... Does anyone know if there's a similar EU-based service like that as well?

@simplejoy you probably know that UV Induced Visual Fluorescence (UVIVF) is done with a stock, unmodified camera. You just need a filtered UV light source. This can be a modified electronic flash, an UV flashlight, or the Adaptalux with UV arms. It also helps to use a filter on the camera lens to block UV. Most of my UVIVF images use a stock Pentax 645Z.

Reflected UV can sometimes be done with a stock camera. But, just like IR with a stock camera, exposure times are very long. I used to do IR with a 6mp Pentax *ist DS DSLR. It had a much weaker internal filter that let at least 1 stop more IR thru than other cameras. I've also done IR with the stock 645Z at 3200 or higher ISO. Long exposures are required but high ISO looks ok on that camera. No doubt for reflected UV and IR a modified camera is best.

The US has Kolari Vision, Lifepixel, and Max Max doing conversions. I went with Kolari because they modify Pentax and Lifepixel doesn't. Didn't learn about Max Max untill later. To find a company willing to modify your camera in Europe check out robertreiser.photography/infrared-camera-conversion-service/
This site has a listing of worldwide modification services. Be careful, not all companies do all types of cameras or mods.

UVIVF of Kiwi plant. Two Adaptalux Pod Mini with UV arms, Pentax 645Z with Pentax 645 120mm macro lens and Tiffen Haze 2E filter.
Thanks for looking,
barondla

Thank you very much for all the information - I wasn't aware of that. Sounds like a great way to try UV!

The Kiwi image looks great - very nice colors!

BTW. because you mentioned it in your description: What does a Haze filter do?