Sorry, I interpreted your comment as meaning that "analog multiplication" is a concept on the tip of the tongue of anyone involved with computing. it certainly isn't on mine.
My mistake.
April 10, 2023
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I think you said you couldn't find any examples of the motif prior to 2010? That's a decade after consumer digital got into full swing. The concept behind it was promoted from the beginning, well before the motif appeared. I would suggest it is the concept that is wrong, the motif just happens to be the most visible manifestation of this because it is a successful meme (vehicle). But if it wasn't the ET, it would be some other meme spreading the same falseness. I would say the "success" of the ET meme makes it harder to correct the erroneous concept rather being the original cause of the error. I think the blame for that lies elsewhere.
Anyway even though all this is on topic with the opening post, beyond sharing a sense of regret about how things have been communicated, I find it less important the the continuing process of correcting my own mis-conceptions. I should probably start a specific thread about this rather than bolting it on to this one, but having read the horror "beginner ISO thread", I think I prefer discussing it here! I'm warming to the way this forum software works but a threaded view would certainly help track sub conversations within a thread. Looking forward to when that is implemented. My deepest appreciation to the guys working on the platform.
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How does this change the way you take pictures?
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That depends on the way that you take pictures.
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One way it could potentially change the way you take pictures is to make you discontinue use of the ISO knob. I'll not make a decision on that until I feel confident I understand the function of the ISO thoroughly.
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I routinely set ISO last, either manually or via Auto ISO. When you have some spare time try putting your camera in Manual or Aperture priority, both with Auto ISO. Set an appropriate aperture for the DOF you want and a shutter speed if using manual. You have to use a bit of common sense though. F/2.8, 1/60s on bright sunlit beach is not going to work.
Hopefully with a bit of practice and experimenting you will be comfortable of letting go of the ISO knob on your camera :-).
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Ok, what will? Why would you want to shoot in auto ISO mode on a sunny beach?
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The first digital computer I worked with was a Burroughs B220 in the basement of Encina Hall at Stanford, in 1961. Tubes. A year or so later I worked with a Packard Bell analog computer. Also tubes. When I think computers and analog multiplication, I think of analog computers, and circuitry that multiplies two voltages or currents. A few years later, I designed some analog multipliers, which weren't simple to make work. There were lots of approaches, which tells you right off the bat that none of them are great. The Fairchild temperature compensated diodes were a big help.
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Why wouldn’t you use Auto-ISO on a sunny beach? With Auto-ISO in Aperture Priority mode, you would choose an appropriate aperture for the desired DOF/sharpness, and the camera would choose a complementary SS and base ISO. You would then have the choice to fine-tune that exposure as needed using exposure compensation (effectively, the SS). No problem, right?
And here’s the advantage of Auto-ISO - from the sunny beach you walk directly into a big dark sea cave, now what? You choose the aperture again (probably a wider one) and the camera automatically drops the SS to whatever preset limit you set, and raises the ISO automatically to compensate for the lack of exposure in such a dark space. Again, you you have the same option to use exposure compensation to fine-tune the brightness (effectively the ISO) to taste. Walking from bright sun to darkness and you’re still taking pictures with optimal exposure without having to do anything differently. -
I don't think that in-camera global metering is the best route to optimal exposures for raw files.
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What does in-camera global metering have to do with whether or not to use Auto-ISO on the beach (or anywhere)? I use Fuji’s highlight warning blinkies, usually with Multi (evaluative) metering, for determining RAW exposure. It works pretty much perfectly in almost any situation (including on the beach).
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Auto-ISO relies on in-camera global metering.
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You missed the context of the post I replied to. He meant shooting with manual exposure, letting the camera choose the ISO.
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That's mostly true in general. With cameras that have dual conversion gain, increasing the ISO setting and decreasing the exposure by a third of a stop might help in the really deep shadows, but hurt in the not-so-deep ones. I avoid in-camera ISO settings that apply digital gain. If you look at input referred read noise vs ISO settings at BIll Claff's website, you can see where ISO increases help with read noise and where they don't. I have a more complete and complicated way of looking at it that is definitely not for the beginner.
Those are details. The long pole in the tent for most photography is photon noise, and ISO settings that don't affect exposure don't affect photon noise.
Another point is that raw converters are not designed for extreme pushes.
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What's the preferred approach with the GFX50s and A7Rii? I know you tested these inside out.
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I think you've got a few years on me. My first was 1964. But then I had a head start. My father was an electronic engineer working on the ACE pilot model of 1950, before I was born. But I went into work with him sometimes and tried some things (under supervision) with some of the equipment. Amazing how much things had progressed in 14 years!
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The GFX 50S lacks dual conversion gain, and implements ISOs higher than 1250 by expecting the raw developer to do the scaling. I'd just leave extra headroom above base ISO.
The a7RII has dual conversion gain. The high setting kicks in at ISO 640. I'd avoid ISO 500.
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This forum seems to be getting off to a great start for dpr replacement.
