Looks to me like there is.
April 10, 2023
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My Weston meter certainly has ASA settings, and so does every other light meter that I've seen.
Don Cox -
Looks to me like there is. Those highlights may not be important to you, though. The way I do it is just as fast. We're both setting the exposure manually. Using one safe ISO for a series and using auto ISO for the same series is about the same amount of work.
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Hitting the J key on my keyboard in Lightroom reveals that there isn't a blown pixel on the image and that (deliberately) some of the blacks have been allowed to go to.... erm.... black :)
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There isn't a blown highlight in the image. Some of the shadows have been allowed to revert to pure black, intentionally. I'd share a screenshot direct from LR, but it appears to create a 13mb file which I cannot share here due to the 4mb limit.
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That tells you what's blown after raw development, not what's blown in the raw file.
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To which I'd say, as an event photographer, who cares? We need to nail the shot. Thats the key. Nail the shot, not nail an optimum raw file. NODODY chases that end goal. There was NEVER a blown highlight anyway. Heres the histogram:
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Quite the opposite, deliberately so :)
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Void tones in highlights are because of clipping. Histogram seems to deceive you.
That said, I would clip more ;) -
Hard to avoid in scenes with light sources in them. Then the question is whether you want to keep any detail or colour in the light. In this case, I agree with you.
Exposure for sunset shots is interesting. -
Yes. Filters help sometimes. Keeping ISO at lowest very often. Combining two exposures rather often.
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I know what you did there haha :) But seriously, all that matters is nailing the shot you need and/or want.
Sometimes you're in a controlled situation such as on a tripod for an epic landscape. Or in the studio. Or doing some architecture. Great!
But if you're doing street/events/weddings etc where you need to be immediately responsive the ONLY thing that matters is nailing the shot, which you can optimise in post later.
NOT thinking OMG have I set up my camera for the last 1% of its optimum raw file capabilities?
Thats where threads can be become less about real world photography and more about theory :)
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I wonder how I nailed focus with FM2 :)
I have ISO Auto on and limited to ISO 1600, -1 EV compensation, and aperture / shutter speed set manually. Cameras set to save raw. Pretty fast. -
That's rather missing the point. No-one says that you need to aim for 1% of optimum all the time. But the question arises why you'd want to know about exposure and take control yourself. 99% of the time the camera automation will do a reasonable job, so if a reasonable job is good enough, why bother? But if you do decide it's important enough to bother, you need to understand it well enough to make the right decisions to get you to the last 1%
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Exactly, I do the same. The only difference is my auto ISO is upper limited to 12800 these days. But we are saying the same thing. Choose the shutter speed and aperture you need to get the shot you want. The rest is largely irrelevant and/or optimised in post. No point taking something simple and then setting about to complicate it ;-)
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Because in 40 years of photography I've become content with learning my current cameras and nailing the shots I need. Not missing the point, rather focusing in on the points that nail decisive moments, not optimum raw files :)
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A nice bit of comedy to kick off the week!
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The sensors may not be explicitly specified in terms of ISO but the camera manufacturers do so. And it doesn‘t matter, the exposure which leads to a filling of the photo diode‘s capacitor to a ratio as defined by ISO definition can be calculated from the sensor specs.
Most people know ISO from the film ratings and here it makes sense.
Now it is governed by ISO standard? (see your first comment). And no, it is not governed by ISO standard. It is a calculation derived from the definition of ISO but the sensor has one ISO and the ISO setting of the camera is virtual.
Of course it is. It defines how big the exposure is in order to reach the required level of saturation of the sensor or film. But as I said, with digital sensors, the meaning of ISO is corrupted.
Yes, film grain and sensor noise are different things but the image looks noisier. I did the comparison to pixel binning myself.
