is it radio frequency noise or interference !
April 10, 2023
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Not true for raw files, unless you have very strange criteria for "correct".
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If you're just going to be silly, find someone else to play with.
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If you're just going to be silly, find someone else to play with.
[/quote]It's been one continuous troll since the beginning.
Rich
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define noise ! so noise has how may meanings ?
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very strange YOUR eyes, or do you see with something else?
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It's been one continuous troll since the beginning.
Rich
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so you call it a troll because you cant answer a simple question ? -
seriously dont you have any idea how to profile a printer calibrate your monitor ,calibrate your evf, calibrate your lcd. so that the subject looks the same on all those mediums as the subject in real life ! is this to hard to understand ?
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I disagree.
First of all it appears your definition of exposure is how light or dark an image looks on whatever medium it is on. That's fine, many people have that misconception and we live with that.
When I set exposure* the final image lightness is not even a consideration at that stage. I set the widest aperture that gives my DOF and the slowest shutter speed that meets my blur constraints without clipping important highlights. The camera can set ISO wherever it likes as long as important highlights are not clipped. I set the final image lightness in post.
This way I have maximised the exposure* for the photo I want and maximised the quality of the raw data because the SNR has been maximised.
I don't need a triangle or any other shape to maximise the quality of the raw data.
* exposure - amount of light that struck the sensor per unit area while the shutter was open
** optimal exposure - the maximum exposure* within dof and motion blur requirements without clipping important highlights.
*** under exposed - more exposure* could have been added with the DOF and blur constraints still being met without clipping important highlights. -
How do you profile your printer?
How did you calibrate your monitor?
How did you profile your monitor assuming you are aware profiling your monitor is a separate task to calibrating it?
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do you understand how misleading all these posts are. i was sitting here having a coffee and took an image of my coffee mug then loaded the image on my computer ,looked at via my calibrated screen and then compared them, and guess what just by magic without looking at the raw file on some irrelevant software , went wow that exposure/brightness of my image MATCHES my coffee mug. thats how you determine correct exposure/image brightness period. i have 6 monitors 4 computer screens and a pro printer prints that all look the same. because i have calibrated them all with my eyes. wow is that what our eyes are used for 🙄who ever would have thought. oh and how ridiculous raw viewer said my exposure was 10 stops from clipping 😂😂😂 big deal that was helpfull
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Which sentences do you find misleading?
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It has been proven that pictures of cats work better than pictures of mugs!
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Im going to wash my ute 😁 see if my last post works 😎
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😂🤣
I must be on the wrong forum, i thought i was on a photography forum. No wonder im being called a troll and getting in the sh.....t. my bad everyone i will not pick my camera up again a take a photo ,ooops image .🙄 -
That's ok. Many people have found what I posted very clear and unambiguous and accurate. Whether they accept it or not is their choice to make.
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No-one is disputing that is how you determine if the image lightness is acceptable or not. That is your choice to make.
I set exposure* differently to the way you do as described earlier.
That's fine. Many people do that as well. But it's not the most accurate way because if you sat 10 different people in front of your monitors and ask them to calibrate them using their eyes, you most likely will end up with 10 different sets of monitor settings suited to each individual's eyes.
If you are happy with your images and prints that's all well and good. Just keep doing what works best for you and other people can continue doing what works best for them 🙂
* exposure - amount of light that struck the sensor per unit area while the shutter was open
** optimal exposure - the maximum exposure* within dof and motion blur requirements without clipping important highlights.
*** under exposed - more exposure* could have been added with the DOF and blur constraints still being met without clipping important highlights. -
I do it every weekend. I'm almost exclusively at f/5.6 when photographing birds in-flight. The lens is wide open. I use a 1/2000 or higher shutter speed with no clouds in the sky. I slow things down to 1/1600 when a very dark bird (e.g. turkey vulture) flies by or when conditions are slightly overcast.
At this point, all I need to do is look at the weather conditions and I know exactly what my exposure settings are going to be. They meet my creative goals for depth of field and rendering of movement. They maximize exposure within those goals. They're correct.
I have no idea if this is the only way to determine a good or correct exposure. I doubt that it is. But it's how i roll :)